Short answer
The main price drivers are the fabric, the amount of handwork, the designer's reputation, and where you buy it. Lace, silk, beading and corsetry all add cost. A simpler dress in a less expensive fabric will always cost less than a heavily embellished one.
Fabric is the biggest factor. Silk, hand-stitched lace, and delicate tulle cost far more than polyester or cotton blends. The amount of fabric also matters: a full ball gown uses many more metres than a slim slip dress. Embroidery, beading, sequins and appliqué are labour intensive, and hand-finishing can take many hours, which pushes the price up.
Designer labels and bridal boutiques add their own costs for design, marketing and fitting services. A made-to-measure dress will cost more than off-the-peg, and alterations are usually extra. You also pay for the experience: the shop, the consultant, and the multiple fittings. Buying second-hand, sample sale, or from a small independent maker can reduce costs without reducing quality.
Think about what you value. If you love a simple silhouette, you can save on embellishment. If you want a showstopper, be prepared to pay for the workmanship. Always ask what is included in the price, such as alterations, steaming, or a bustle. And remember, you can change the look with accessories rather than spending more on the dress itself.
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